MECHANICS OF COASTAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT
by Jørgen Fredsøe (Technical University of Denmark)
&
Rolf Deigaard (Technical University of Denmark)
This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the
marine environment, covering transport of noncohesive sediment by waves
and currents in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read
independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics
is required.
The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes
of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models.
The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant
hydrodynamic theory is described. This part contains a review of
elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave
boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents,
and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents.
The second part covers sediment transport and morphological
development.The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts
(critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer,
near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended
sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and
wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and
long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development
of coastal profiles and coastlines.
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